Many snowbelt communities that depend on summer tourism stagnate in winter. An increasing number are turning to various forms of winter recreation to keep cash flowing. For example, summer madhouse West Yellowstone, Mont., has become the self-styled “snowmobile capital of the world.” And, in other instances—Aspen, Colo., Sun Valley, Idaho—nordic skiing is one element in a winter economy supported by recreational diversity. But in the case of north-central Washington’s Methow Valley, remote from both major alpine ski areas and population centers, cross country is the catalytic winter attraction.
Located on the east side of the Cascade range, more than four hours from Seattle in winter, the valley is spectacular, with peaks rising 7,000 feet above its glacier-gouged floor. Weather, terrain and altitude all favor cross country, with reliable snow from mid-December to mid-March.
Come summer, the North Cascades Highway is open and tourism flourishes.
But until the development of groomed cross country trails and supporting programs in the late 1970s, the local economy virtually shut down when snow closed the highway in November. Today, “the Methow” is frequently listed among the top 10 American cross country destinations in publications such as Cross-Country Ski Vacations and Cross Country Skier.
The Methow’s story is intriguing for several reasons. First, it began with chaotic nordic growth (at one time five separate entities in the region groomed their own trails) that evolved into land planning, beginning in 1985. Second, planning moved from skiing alone into multi-season trails. Third, state and federal public lands agencies—primarily the U.S. Forest Service—have been instrumental in trail development, even evaluating potential when considering timber sales. And last, what began as a modest operation at one resort now involves the entire community and includes trail easements from more than 25 private landowners. Businesses from coffee houses to real estate companies benefit from the trail network.
Methow residents have been backcountry skiing since the 1880s, but commercial operations didn’t begin until almost a century later. In 1976, ski instructor/guide Don Portman was hired by Sun Mountain Lodge (a four-season resort built in the 1960s) to develop trails, groom, teach, rent equipment and promote the sport. The aim was to fill beds and sell meals. Trails now link inns and lodges throughout the 60-mile-long valley. The region has the second largest groomed-trail system in the U.S. (175+ kms), attracting up to 10 percent of guests from outside the Northwest.
The organizing body for the Methow’s winter operation began as a family sports club in the mid-1970s and evolved into a non-profit corporation. In 1991, the Methow Valley Ski Touring Association became Methow Valley Sport Trail Association (MVSTA) as a reflection of hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking use. Their mission statement reads: “MVSTA is a non-profit organization dedicated to developing and promoting environmentally sound non-motorized recreation year-round on and near the trails of the Methow Valley.”
The organization has a $400,000 budget, spent largely on trail refinement and grooming. Capital projects such as bridges are funded from a variety of sources, including the separate non-profit Methow Institute Foundation.
The Methow’s trail development process depended on the commitment of businesses, individuals and government agencies. Land planning has required intricate coordination of federal and state agencies with private owners. The most complex issue has been establishing the Methow Community Trail, which links three other distinct networks. Core volunteers have played a vital role, not simply building trails and bridges, but also persuading resorts and real estate developers that they would benefit from creating greenways and protecting open space.
There are ongoing concerns, such as staging areas with adequate parking and toilets, environmental hurdles and the huge size of the trail system compared to visits; but results are extremely impressive. As MVSTA Executive Director Jay Lucas explains: “Cross country is the winter economy in the Methow. Most restaurants, shops and lodges in the upper valley—and 145 full-time seasonal jobs—exist specifically because of cross country.” According to GM Brian Charlton of Sun Mountain Lodge, the lodge sold 1,458 room nights in all of 1985; now they far exceed that figure in winter alone. Last winter’s 25,000 visits brought in more than $2 million to the valley, adding $150,000 to the tax base.
Not all snowbelt communities can capitalize on cross country on the Methow’s scale. It takes favorable coincidence of snowfall, land access, topography, plus individuals and land managers with the vision and tenacity to transmute reverie into reality. It is inspiring to see that a remote location can transform itself into a winter destination, while providing employment, building the tax base, providing “clean” recreation for locals and visitors alike, and protecting the rural landscape.
Methow Valley at a Glance
- 175 kms. groomed trails, primarily single tracked trails plus skating lane; three ski schools; 25,000 skier visits.
- Grooming machinery: two Pisten Bully 160s, one Pisten Bully 130, one Tucker 2000, Ski-Doo Alpines with Tidd Tech implements—about 8 hours to regroom entire system.
- Methow Valley profile: 4,500+ population, room base 900+ guests.
- $2 million income; $150,000 in taxes generated by cross country.
- Visitor profile: 34 percent couples, 21 percent families, 19 percent groups, 2 percent singles. Average stay 3.7 days.
- MVSTA staff: three full-time, 12 seasonal employees.
- MVSTA budget: $400,000 from trail fees, season passes and events. Trails generated $270,000 in 1998-99. Gross revenues rose 30 percent over the past three winters. —JW
